| Choosing and buying a new radiator might not be | | | | water in the radiator so that you make sure the |
| such a difficult task in its essence as long as you | | | | water is not going to ruin your house as well. |
| kept in mind some important ideas like: | | | | |
| - The radiators should have at least a 2-year | | | | - Undo the bleed valve from the radiator so that |
| guarantee. | | | | the water can drain off from the system. |
| - They should be pressure-tested to 152.3 PSI | | | | - When the radiator is empty, you can start |
| (10.5 bar) in order to be able to handle a pressure | | | | undoing one of the valves at the bottom of the |
| of 116 PSI (8 bar) at a temperature of 95°C. | | | | radiator; you will probably still notice some water |
| - The output of the radiator should comply with | | | | leaking, so you will still have to go and drain some |
| the BSEN442 European standard for radiators. | | | | water downstairs. It may be necessary that you |
| If you do not resort to a specialist's help, here are | | | | should take the water out of the whole system. |
| some tips that you should take into account when | | | | - Remove the fittings and lift it upwards in order |
| replacing an old radiator and that can be quite | | | | to remove it from the brackets. |
| easily implemented. Connecting a radiator to an | | | | 3. Fitting the radiator to the Wall |
| already existing central heating system is a pretty | | | | Once you have decided on the location of the |
| straightforward DIY job that can be conducted in | | | | new radiator, you will probably want to fix it to |
| a matter of hours. | | | | the wall. In order to do that, you have to follow 5 |
| The aim of this article is to provide a tutorial on | | | | easy steps: |
| how to fit in a new radiator yourself without the | | | | - Measuring the distance between two fastening |
| help of a professional plumber. I will provide some | | | | points on the back of the radiator. |
| tips on how to choose the location of the | | | | - Drawing a vertical line on the wall employing a |
| radiator, on how to remove the old radiator (if | | | | bubble level (spirit level). |
| applicable), how to fit the new radiator to the wall, | | | | - Drawing an additional line to correct the distance |
| some tips concerning how to cut a pipe, how to | | | | apart. |
| connect the new radiator and finally, how to deal | | | | - Fastening the brackets to the wall. |
| with corrosion. | | | | - Putting the radiator on to the brackets. |
| 1. Location of the radiator | | | | 4. Cutting the pipe (better done by plumber) |
| If you are not replacing an old radiator and you | | | | You need a pipe slice for copper pipes and plastic |
| just want to add a new one to the system, you | | | | pipe slicers for plastic. |
| must probably be already aware that radiators | | | | - Place a bowl under the pipe since some residual |
| are usually placed where the draft enters the | | | | water is likely to come out. |
| house, somewhere near a window or near the | | | | - In order to place the "T" fitting, you need to cut |
| entrance door. Now you should be aware that | | | | more from one of the pipes. |
| there are problems with both locations; for | | | | - Make sure you have push-fit fittings and |
| instance, if you place a radiator near a window, | | | | compression fittings at hand. |
| the length of the curtains could have a negative | | | | - In case you're working with copper pipes, have |
| effect on the way heat is distributed inside your | | | | a pipe bender and a pipe bending spring at hand. |
| home. | | | | - After inserting the "T" fitting, run the pipe from |
| Also, the location of the radiator near the | | | | the flow and return pipes to the new radiator (the |
| entrance door might pose some problems in case | | | | flow pipe should have the valve on). |
| you have disabled persons or children in your | | | | 5. Connecting the new radiator |
| family. Derived from the curtain problem, you | | | | Once all the above things were observed, you |
| should make sure consequently that you leave | | | | can finally connect the new radiator: |
| enough room for the heat to circulate and for the | | | | - Connect the radiator making sure that the pipe |
| valves to be installed. The distance between that | | | | inserts are used. |
| base of the radiator and the ground should be of | | | | - In case you are using compression valves, you |
| approximately 150 mm, at least. | | | | should have copper olives since other types of |
| | | | valves may be too hard for plastic pipes. |
| *Note: depending on the type of radiator, you | | | | - Close the drain off valve. |
| should leave a specific distance between the wall | | | | - Remove the hosepipe. |
| and the radiator as well: | | | | - Close the bleeding valve from the radiator that |
| - 40-46 mm for single panel | | | | you might have opened previously. |
| - 58-65 mm for double panel | | | | - Fill the system again using the cold supply filling |
| - 35-44 mm for single convector radiators | | | | loop and if it is a vented system via the water |
| - 60-71 mm for double panel plus | | | | supply system i.e. loft water supply tank. |
| - 71-84mm for double convector. | | | | - Check new fittings for potential leakages (in |
| Another factor that should influence your decision | | | | case you come across any leakages, tighten the |
| to place the radiator somewhere is the position of | | | | screws or make sure that the pipes are pushed |
| the pipe. You should be aware that there are two | | | | all the way into the fitting). |
| types of pipes - flow and return. Older system | | | | - After doing everything, you should bleed the |
| might just have one pipe playing the double role. | | | | radiator. You can view our previous article, called |
| In a single pipe system, there is a flow pipe that | | | | How to bleed your radiator in order to get the |
| takes the heated water from the boiler while the | | | | right information on how to do it. |
| return pipe brings the water to the boiler to be | | | | How to deal with Corrosion |
| heated again. In twin pipe system, you should first | | | | Most people worry about corrosion when installing |
| try and fix the radiator tails (screw fitting that | | | | a new radiator. This is indeed something that you |
| should come with a lock shield or thermostatic | | | | should consider which is inevitable in its essence. |
| radiator valves). | | | | What you can do is to prolong the need to |
| | | | replace the radiator. |
| Before screwing it to the radiator, you should put | | | | Which are the factors that affect corrosion? |
| some PTFE tape around the thread in order to | | | | - The type of metal employed in the system |
| improve the quality of joints seals. The tails could | | | | - The amount of air drawn into the system |
| be quite easily tightened with a radiator spanner. | | | | - The type of water that gets into the system |
| 2. Removing the old radiator (if applicable) | | | | - The quality of the work for the radiator |
| If you are not replacing an old radiator, you can | | | | installation. |
| skip this section. If you are replacing a radiator | | | | What can be done to prevent early corrosion of |
| however, there is some advice that you should | | | | your radiator? |
| take into account: | | | | Some things you need to do when installing the |
| - Switch off the central heating. If you have | | | | new radiator: |
| conventional heating though, you should stop the | | | | - Proper water flushing and filling after the radiator |
| cold water from coming to the tank or tie the ball | | | | had been installed. |
| valve so that refilling is not permitted. Another | | | | - Application of some corrosion inhibitors, in |
| exception is a conventional vented system, in | | | | accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. |
| which case you will have to take the water out | | | | Conclusion |
| from the system before physically removing the | | | | In a nut-shell, don't forget: |
| radiator. | | | | - In terms of location, make sure that you leave |
| - Drain off the water from the radiator: (1) You | | | | enough room for the heat to circulate and for the |
| should open the square with a suitable spanner (2) | | | | valves to be installed. |
| Make sure you have a hose pipe connected to | | | | - When you remove the radiator, drain the |
| the draincock Type A for a sealed system to | | | | system out. |
| deal with leaking water. In a conventional vented | | | | - Fix the radiator to the wall. |
| system, you could use a hosepipe and clamp it on | | | | - Cut the pipe (if necessary). |
| with a jubilee clip and then try and reach the | | | | - Connect the new radiator. |
| other point of the hose pipe. (3) Remove all the | | | | - Use some corrosion inhibitors. |