| So, you have weatherized and insulated your | | | | modification to the photos shown here. |
| house. You have switched all of, OK most of your | | | | Paint the entire interior of the solar air heater with |
| light bulbs to CFL's and installed a low flow | | | | flat black spray paint. |
| showerhead. Your programmable thermostat is | | | | Apply the compressible foam weatherstripping |
| set for 66° at night and you use a whole | | | | along the face of the entire frame. You may elect |
| house fan to cool your house in the summer. Now | | | | to use silicone sealant, but this will prevent you |
| you are considering entering the world of | | | | from removing the glass in the future. |
| alternative energy, but you don't live on a windy | | | | Secure the old window sash or glass to the |
| five acre lot, nor do you have the funds to invest | | | | frame. Screw directly through the sash to the |
| in a photovoltaic array or a solar hot water | | | | frame or use 1" long pieces of aluminum angle to |
| system. The answer to your dilemma is a Solar | | | | hold the glass in place. Insert a piece of the |
| Air Heater. | | | | weatherstripping between the aluminum angle and |
| First you need to determine which window that | | | | the glass. |
| you want to build your solar air heater for. This | | | | Now you are ready to install your solar air heater |
| type of heater will work in a double hung window, | | | | and weatherize it so that you don't loose more |
| should face south to south west, and should be in | | | | heat than you gain. Open the window and set the |
| direct sun for the greater part of the day. Raise | | | | heater in place. Lower the sash and install foam |
| or remove the screen and measure the minimum | | | | weatherstripping along the line where the sash will |
| clear opening width. | | | | meet the heater. Cut the "air conditioner" foam |
| If you are using an old window sash, you will need | | | | weatherstipping the width of the sash and insert |
| to scrape off any ole paint, repair the glazing | | | | between the sashes at the bottom of the |
| putty, prime and paint the sash, and clean the | | | | exterior sash. Next, tuck a piece of plastic wrap |
| glass. | | | | between the air heater arm and the window |
| Build the wood frame: make it 1 ½" wider | | | | jamb, making sure to secure it in place and cover |
| than the minimum clear opening and 36" to 48" | | | | all surrounding surfaces. Fill the gap between the |
| tall. Or build it to fit the old window that you are | | | | air heater and the window jamb with expandable |
| using. Other designs use insulation for the frame, | | | | foam. Finally, install insulating window film over the |
| but treated wood decking is much more durable | | | | window, securing the bottom of it to the |
| so your air heater will last for years and years. | | | | horizontal piece of decking. |
| Marine grade plywood or primes and painted 1x6's | | | | Finally, cut a piece of rigid insulation to fit in the |
| may be substituted for the decking. | | | | top opening of the heater to prevent any |
| Add the arms that extend through the window | | | | nighttime heat loss, or roll up an old bath towel |
| making sure that they extend far enough so that | | | | and set it into the gap just below the sash. Adding |
| the air heater can be secured on the inside of the | | | | a piece of aluminum flashing on the top of the |
| window. Follow this up with the remaining decking | | | | solar air heater will help to keep the water out, |
| pieces and the 1x4 trim. Seal all joints with sealant. | | | | and in the spring you might want to prime and |
| Cut the rigid insulation back to fit into the frame, | | | | paint the treated wood frame. |
| leaving a 5 ½" gap at the top. Use a chalk | | | | Materials list: 1 - 4'x8' sheet of rigid insulation, old |
| line to mark the line or a drywall square with a | | | | window sash or glass, 3 - 5/4x6x8' treated |
| new blade in your knife in order to make clean | | | | decking, 1 - 1x4x8', construction adhesive, |
| straight cuts. Secure this into the frame with a | | | | exterior sealant, compressible foam |
| continuous bead of construction adhesive. Add 2" | | | | weatherstripping or silicone sealant, flat black |
| spacers along the edges and in the middle. | | | | spray paint, foam sealant (Great Stuff), 3" |
| Add the horizontal rigid insulation between the | | | | screws, 1 ½" roofing nails, metal corner |
| arms at the bottom, and then one in the middle | | | | bead (for drywall), aluminum flashing, "air |
| of the arms. Again, secure both pieces with a | | | | conditioner" foam weatherstipping, 1"x1" aluminum |
| continuous bead of construction adhesive on all | | | | angle, plastic wrap, and insulating window film. |
| four sides. | | | | Optional materials: glazing putty, primer and paint. |
| Cut the front insulation panel and secure with a | | | | Tools list: Utility knife, saw, drill, screwdriver, |
| continuous bead of construction adhesive. Cut the | | | | clamps, caulk gun, tape measure, tin snips, chalk |
| corner bead and secure with roofing nails to the | | | | line or drywall square. Optional tools: putty knife, |
| insulation with the fins pointing out. This is a slight | | | | paint brush. |